Whenever I add a new destination to Prone to Wander Retreats, I want to answer the question of why. Why did I choose this region, these cities, and this host venue?
When I first visited Puglia, in 2017, I was enchanted and knew that I would someday add it to the Prone to Wander offerings. But as thrilled as I was, I noticed right away that Puglia was a land of contradictions – which is, perhaps, why it isn’t as well known as its flashier coastal counterpoints.
It is majestic Masserias (farmhouses) in a region that was historically very poor. It is barren scrubland that gives way to lush olive groves that stretch as far as the eye can see. It is busy city centers and countryside roads where you wonder if you’ve been transported to another dimension and are the only person still alive. It is modern block apartments, ugly and utilitarian, in the “new” parts of cities, and baroque gems of historical city centers that leave one in awe. It is a region that is fighting to welcome “modernity” but still shuts down every afternoon for the pennica (afternoon nap).
Puglia offers a truly unique experience in Italy, distinct from the well-trodden paths of Tuscany or Rome. While Tuscany is famed for its rolling hills, vineyards, and classical art, and Rome for its ancient ruins and bustling city life, Puglia presents a different kind of allure – one that blends history, culture, and natural beauty in a way that feels refreshingly unspoiled and off the beaten track. Indeed, Puglia could be the poster child for il dolce far niente – the sweetness of doing nothing – because life here is really laid back. So during our tour you will experience this slower, more grounded way of life.
The historic city centers, such as those in Lecce and Ostuni (known as “the white city”), are full of charm, with narrow cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings, and Baroque architecture that transport you back in time. Not to be outdone, Alberobello makes its mark with its iconic Trulli houses with their conical roofs, and the sheer cliffs of Polignano a Mare leave visitors in awe. These locations, all a part of our tour itinerary, are an essential part of what makes Puglia so enchanting.
Puglia’s olive groves, some of which are centuries old, are an iconic part of its landscape. However as you will see first hand during your retreat, they are currently under threat by the spread of the devastating disease, Xylella fastidiosa. This bacterium has decimated a third of the region’s 60 million olive trees – which once produced almost half of Italy’s olive oil production. Many farms stopped producing, olive mills went bankrupt, and it continues to threaten the livelihood of local farmers, as there is no cure. During your time in Puglia you will no doubt see field after field that has been destroyed by this scourge.
If you are already familiar with Prone to Wander Retreats, you may know that its founder, Carolyn Peeler, is always on the hunt for good antique and general markets, and she has found two for our group to visit during our tour! We will spend one morning enjoying Puglia’s largest antique market, in Ostuni. With prices that are decidedly less expensive than the markets in Tuscany, Rome, and Milan, the market offers a somewhat perplexing treasure trove of vintage goods, from rustic tools, and old ceramics to vintage furniture, quirky collectibles, and items that look like they are remnants from a swap meet! Here there is much less of a ‘curated’ vibe and instead you’ll feel that you’re visiting a place where locals come to buy what they need. On another morning, we will join the locals in Lecce as they purchase food, clothing and housewares at one of their weekly markets.
At Prone to Wander Retreats we firmly believe that a simple way to get to know a culture is through its food and so we aim to feed you well! Puglia’s culinary traditions are deeply rooted in the land, with a cuisine centred around fresh, local ingredients. The region’s olive oil, often regarded as some of the best in the world (although, to be fair, there are several regions in Italy who each claim this honour!), is a key part of every meal, while local specialties like orecchiette pasta, seafood, and burrata cheese highlight the region’s coastal and agricultural bounty.
Puglia is an ideal destination for those looking for an authentic and off the beaten path Italian experience, travelling with likeminded women who are ready to open their heart to an adventure that is out of the ordinary. I invite you to join us!
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